In recent years, one TV show has stood out as a prime example of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon. HBO’s “Succession” has become a cult favorite among fans for its witty dialogue and dysfunctional family relationships, but it’s the characters’ wardrobe choices that have garnered attention in the fashion world. The show’s emphasis on quality, discretion, and understated elegance has helped popularize a trend within minimalist fashion.
“Stealth wealth” is not a new concept. It can be seen as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends like ‘90s minimalism or the normcore of the 2010s. However, it is unique in its focus on quality over extravagance.
“It’s things that are understated and polished,” explains Cathleen Sheehan, a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “They’re not saying, ‘look at me,’ but it’s more like, ‘look a little closer in order to really see what’s going on.’ You have to study it.”
Many of the characters in “Succession” embody the “stealth wealth” aesthetic. For the last three seasons, fans have come to expect the characters to be dressed in nondescript clothing, such as blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits that rarely jump off the screen. The logo-less clothing has become an Easter egg-style game of determining the brand behind the styles, which are typically luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and others.
“We did our research of the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones, and Jeff Bezos of the world,” says Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession.” “We don’t follow necessarily what they are wearing. We follow who the character is and where they would shop. Whereas Roman might be shopping more downtown, Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue.”
For superfans of the show, the characters’ clothing has become aspirational. Sheehan notes that “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces.
“It’s aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford,” she says. “There’s something interesting about that that it feels like a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.”
The show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue, according to Schwartz. The show’s characters have had little evolution style-wise in the four seasons, which perhaps reflects a larger message.
“The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes,” says Schwartz. “They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.”
Over the four seasons, Kendall Roy (played by Jeremy Strong) has had the biggest style evolution, which was meant to reflect the changes in his character. The character started off the show in corporate-style suits and has since evolved to more casual, yet pricey leather and suede jackets and streetwear sneakers. The character’s casual style still plays into “stealth wealth” as his clothing is typically from Loro Piana, Tom Ford, or Gucci.
The show’s season four premiere episode seemingly addressed the characters’ inclination to “stealth wealth” when Nicholas Braun’s character (who is referred to as cousin Greg) brings a date to Logan Roy’s birthday party who accessorizes her look with what character Tom Wambsgans described as a “ludicrously capacious bag.” The bag in question was the Burberry Title Vintage Check Tote Bag, which despite a high price tag of $2,890, doesn’t fit in with the logo-free aesthetic prominent in “stealth wealth.” After the episode aired, Google searches for the Burberry bag skyrocketed, highlighting viewers’ eagerness to “find the label.”
“Succession” has fueled demand for many of the understated products featured on the show. From Loro Piana’s baseball cap to its white-soled shoes, many of the items have sold out at retail after a “Succession” character wears them. However, the trend is not limited to luxury brands. The focus on quality over logo branding has also resulted in increased interest in high-quality basics, like cashmere sweaters and neutral-colored suits.
In conclusion, “Succession” has become a prime example of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon, a trend that emphasizes quality and discretion over extravagance. The show’s costume choices have resonated with fans, who find the characters’ understated wardrobe choices aspirational. The “stealth wealth” trend is not limited to luxury brands, but rather focuses on investing in better quality pieces and paring down wardrobes. As the show’s final season airs, it’s clear that “Succession” has left a lasting impact on the fashion world.
