HBO’s “Succession” has become a cultural phenomenon since it premiered in 2018. Fans have come to love the witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships, and most interestingly, the finely curated wardrobe of the characters. Over the last few years, the show has popularized a niche trend within minimalist fashion known as “stealth wealth.”
“Stealth wealth” refers to clothing that is understated yet polished, emphasizing quality and discretion over gaudiness. This fashion trend is not necessarily new; previous minimalist fashion trends like ‘90s minimalism or the normcore of the 2010s also emphasized simplicity and a lack of branding. However, “stealth wealth” takes minimalism to another level by emphasizing quality and exclusivity.
The characters of “Succession” are a perfect embodiment of this trend. Throughout the show’s four seasons, the characters have been dressed in nondescript clothing, including blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits, rarely featuring any visible branding. For superfans of the show, identifying and recognizing the brands behind these styles has become an Easter egg-style game. Many of the clothing items featured on the show are from luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and more.
“We did our research of the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones and Jeff Bezos of the world,” said Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession.” “We don’t follow necessarily what they are wearing. We follow who the character is and where they would shop. Whereas Roman might be shopping more downtown, Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue. It fits into this overall theme of billionaires because they’re definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it’s really the character that dictates the types of clothing they would wear.”
The popularity of “Succession” has spilled over into the world of fashion, inspiring many viewers to adopt the “stealth wealth” trend themselves. Numerous articles over the last five years have highlighted the show’s impact on fashion, as many of the clothing items worn by the characters have sparked an increase in demand. For instance, Loro Piana’s baseball cap and white-soled shoes have been particularly popular, often quickly selling out in retail after a “Succession” character wears them.
Apart from its impact on fashion, “Succession” has also been acclaimed for its accurate portrayal of the uber-rich and their lifestyles. Schwartz believes that the show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. “The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes,” he said. “In writing, people are supposed to change and transform. That’s the funny thing about ‘Succession.’ They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.”
Apart from its relevance to “Succession,” the “stealth wealth” trend can also be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces. This trend of investing in quality pieces is likely to continue into 2022, as consumers become more mindful of their consumption patterns.
Overall, “Succession” has not only become one of the most popular shows on TV but has also sparked a renewed interest in minimalist fashion trends. The show has inspired countless ‘stealth wealth’ shoppers and earned a permanent place in the world of fashion.