In the last five years, HBO’s “Succession” has become a favorite among viewers for its witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships, and finely curated wardrobe popularizing a niche trend in minimalist fashion. The hit TV show has become one of the prime examples of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon, one that has been around long before “Succession” debuted.
“It’s things that are understated and polished,” explained Fashion Institute of Technology professor Cathleen Sheehan. “They’re not saying, ‘look at me,’ but it’s more like, ‘look a little closer in order to really see what’s going on.’”
“Stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends, such as ‘90s minimalism or the normcore of the 2010s. But “stealth wealth” is unique in its emphasis on quality and discretion.
Throughout the show, the characters are dressed in nondescript clothing, such as blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits that rarely jump off the screen. For superfans of the show, the logo-less clothing has become an Easter egg-style game of determining the brand behind the styles, which are typically luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and others.
“We did our research of the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones, and Jeff Bezos of the world,” said Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession.” “We don’t follow necessarily what they are wearing. We follow who the character is and where they would shop. It fits into this overall theme of billionaires because they’re definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it’s really the character that dictates the types of clothing they would wear.”
The show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. The show’s season four premiere episode seemingly addressed the characters’ inclination to “stealth wealth” when Nicholas Braun’s character brings a date to Logan Roy’s birthday party who accessorizes her look with what character Tom Wambsgans described as a “ludicrously capacious bag.” The bag in question was the Burberry Title Vintage Check Tote Bag, which despite a high price tag of $2,890, doesn’t fit in with the logo-free aesthetic prominent in “stealth wealth.”
“Stealth wealth” has appealed to the masses for its aspirational quality. It can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces. “It’s aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford,” explained Sheehan. “There’s something interesting about that, that it feels like a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.”
In conclusion, HBO’s “Succession” has become a prime example of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon. The show has resonated with fans for its witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships, and finely curated wardrobe. The show’s “stealth wealth” fashion has been around long before “Succession” debuted and can be seen as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends. The characters on “Succession” don’t follow necessarily what real-life billionaires are wearing, but rather where they would shop, making the fashion more authentic to the characters. “Stealth wealth” has appealed to the masses for its aspirational quality and can be seen as a shift from “look at me” fashion to look a little closer.
