HBO’s “Succession” is a popular TV show that has been on air for the last five years. It has gained recognition and popularity due to its witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships, and finely curated wardrobe, which has helped popularize a niche trend within minimalist fashion. The show has become one of the prime examples of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon, which has been around for a long time, but the show has helped to repopularize it.
“Stealth wealth” is all about understated and polished clothing that doesn’t scream for attention, but rather, it is more like, “look a little closer to see what’s going on.” It’s the care and the materials, and if you’re in the fashion business, you might recognize some of the pieces. This trend can be seen as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends like ‘90s minimalism or Normcore of the 2010s, but it is unique in its emphasis on quality and discretion.
The characters in “Succession” are known for their nondescript clothing, which includes blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits that rarely jump off the screen. For superfans of the show, the logoless clothing has become an Easter egg-style game of determining the brand behind the styles, which are typically luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and others.
Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession,” explained that they did their research on the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones, and Jeff Bezos of the world. They don’t follow necessarily what they are wearing, but rather, they follow who the character is and where they would shop. Whereas Roman might be shopping more downtown, Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue. It fits into this overall theme of billionaires because they’re definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it’s really the character that dictates the types of clothing they would wear.
Over the four seasons, Kendall Roy (played by Jeremy Strong) has had the biggest style evolution, which was meant to reflect the changes in his character. The character started off the show in corporate-style suits and has since evolved to more casual, yet pricey leather and suede jackets and streetwear sneakers. The character’s casual style still plays into “stealth wealth” as his clothing is typically from Loro Piana, Tom Ford, or Gucci.
Schwartz stated that besides Kendall Roy, the show’s characters have had little evolution style-wise in the four seasons, which perhaps reflects a larger message. “The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes. In writing, people are supposed to change and transform. That’s the funny thing about ‘Succession.’ They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.”
Schwartz thinks the show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. The show’s season four premiere episode seemingly addressed the characters’ inclination to “stealth wealth” when Nicholas Braun’s character (who is referred to as cousin Greg) brings a date to Logan Roy’s birthday party who accessorizes her look with what character Tom Wambsgans described as a “ludicrously capacious bag.”
The bag in question was the Burberry Title Vintage Check Tote Bag, which despite a high price tag of $2,890, doesn’t fit in with the logo-free aesthetic prominent in “stealth wealth.” It’s another example of viewers’ eagerness to “find the label.” After the episode aired, Google searches for the Burberry bag skyrocketed.
Both Schwartz and Cathleen Sheehan, a Professor at Fashion Institute of Technology, believe the show’s costumes and “stealth wealth” have appealed to the masses for their aspirational quality. Sheehan also noted “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces.
“It’s aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford,” she said. “It’s a classic black turtleneck, but you have to study it and see why it looks good, what it is about it, so it’s aspirational. There’s something interesting about that that it feels like a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.”
In conclusion, “Succession” has popularized the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon, which is all about understated and polished clothing that is high-quality and discreet. The characters on the show are known for their nondescript clothing, which typically comes from luxury brands. The show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. “Succession” has appealed to the masses for their aspirational quality and has helped to repopularize the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces.
