“Succession”: The Rise of “Stealth Wealth” Fashion
HBO’s “Succession” has become a popular TV show, known for its witty dialogue and dysfunctional family relationships. One other aspect of the show that has helped it stand out is its finely curated wardrobe. The show popularized a niche trend within minimalist fashion known as “stealth wealth,” which emphasizes quality and discretion over logos and flashy designs.
“Stealth wealth” has been around for a while, but it has gained more attention because of “Succession.” The Fashion Institute of Technology’s professor Cathleen Sheehan stated that “stealth wealth” is all about understated and polished products. “They’re not saying, ‘look at me,’ but it’s more like, ‘look a little closer in order to really see what’s going on,'” she said.
The characters in “Succession” are often dressed in nondescript clothing, such as blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits that rarely jump off the screen. For superfans of the show, the logo-less clothing has become a game of determining the brand behind the styles, which are typically luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and others.
The show’s assistant costume designer, Jonathan Schwartz, stated that they followed who the character is and where they would shop. “It fits into this overall theme of billionaires because they’re definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it’s really the character that dictates the types of clothing they would wear,” he said.
Besides Kendall Roy, the show’s characters have had little evolution style-wise in the four seasons, which perhaps reflects a larger message. “The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes,” Schwartz said. “In writing, people are supposed to change and transform. That’s the funny thing about ‘Succession.’ They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.”
“Stealth wealth” has appealed to the masses because of its aspirational quality. Sheehan noted that “it’s aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford.” It’s a classic black turtleneck, but you have to study it and see why it looks good, what it is about it, so it’s aspirational. There’s something interesting about that, and it feels like a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.
The popularity of “Succession” has helped fuel demand for certain luxury items, from Loro Piana’s baseball cap to its white-soled shoes. The items that wannabe billionaires want to buy have often sold out at retail after a “Succession” character wears them. After the season four premiere episode aired, Google searches for the Burberry Title Vintage Check Tote Bag, which was worn by a character, skyrocketed.
Sheehan also noted that “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces.
In conclusion, “Succession” has popularized the “stealth wealth” fashion trend, which emphasizes quality and discretion over logos and flashy designs. The characters in the show are dressed in nondescript clothing that often features luxury brands but isn’t flashy. The trend has gained more attention because of its aspirational quality, and it reflects a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.
