“Succession” and the Rise of “Stealth Wealth” Fashion
HBO’s hit TV show “Succession” has become a prime example of the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon, thanks to its emphasis on understated and polished clothing that doesn’t necessarily scream “luxury.”
For the last five years, “Succession” has captivated viewers with its witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships, and finely curated wardrobe, which features minimalist styles from luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, and Ralph Lauren.
Fashion Institute of Technology professor Cathleen Sheehan explains that “stealth wealth” has been around long before “Succession” debuted. She sees it as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends like ‘90s minimalism and the normcore of the 2010s. However, “stealth wealth” is unique in its emphasis on quality and discretion.
The show’s characters, who are fighting for leadership of the international media conglomerate Waystar Royco, are dressed in nondescript clothing like baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits that rarely jump off the screen. Yet, for superfans of the show, the logo-less clothing has become an Easter egg-style game of determining the brand behind the styles.
Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession,” explains that they did their research of the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones, and Jeff Bezoses of the world. They don’t necessarily follow what they are wearing. They follow who the character is and where they would shop. Whereas Roman might be shopping more downtown, Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue.
Over the years, the show has fueled demand for certain luxury items from Loro Piana’s baseball cap to its white-soled shoes. Both can cost in the hundreds of dollars but often sell out at retail after a “Succession” character wears them.
Schwartz notes that besides Kendall Roy, the show’s characters have had little to no evolution style-wise in the four seasons, which perhaps reflects a larger message. “The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes,” he said. “In writing, people are supposed to change and transform. That’s the funny thing about ‘Succession.’ They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.”
Schwartz thinks the show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. Sheehan believes the show’s costumes and “stealth wealth” have appealed to the masses for their aspirational quality. “It’s aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford,” she said.
“It’s a classic black turtleneck, but you have to study it and see why it looks good, what it is about it, so it’s aspirational. There’s something interesting about that, that it feels like a shift from ‘look at me’ fashion to look a little closer.”
Indeed, “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces.
In conclusion, “Succession” has definitely popularized the “stealth wealth” fashion phenomenon and inspired many viewers to appreciate discreet luxury fashion. The show’s costumes have worked perfectly, thanks to their authenticity to the characters and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. As Sheehan notes, “stealth wealth” is aspirational yet achievable, and it represents a shift from “look at me” fashion to a more subtle and polished approach.
