Vogue Philippines has made history by putting Apo Whang-Od on the cover of its April issue. At 106 years old, she is the oldest person ever to appear on the front page of Vogue, cementing her status as a revered tattoo artist and cultural icon. The cover features Whang-Od, also known as Maria Oggay, staring straight into the camera, revealing the iconic geometric, tribal tattoos that have made her an inspiration to many around the world.
Whang-Od has lived her entire life in the tiny, remote village of Buscalan, in Kalinga province in the Philippines’ far north. She is the last “mambabatok” from an ancient age when tribes known for collecting the shrunken heads of their enemies as war trophies populated the thick, merciless jungles of northern Philippines. The word “mambabatok” means “one who pounces”, describing the 1,000-year-old technique she uses when putting ink on skin. She tattoos by tapping a thorn from a pomelo or lime tree – dipped in charcoal soot and water – into the skin using a 30cm-long bamboo stick.
Whang-Od’s tribal tattoos may not be as intricate or detailed by the standards of today’s inkers, but it is her cultural significance that draws people to her. She represents a unique piece of cultural heritage that is rapidly disappearing, as the world increasingly prioritizes modern technology and updated techniques.
Whang-Od comes from the But-but tribe in Kalinga. She became a mambabatok after receiving instructions from her father when she was just 16, in those days only inking the fiercest warriors and fairest women of her tribe. The tattoos were a symbol of status, with men allowed to have tattoos only if they killed someone, she noted in a 2018 documentary.
However, when the United States occupied the Philippines in the early 1900s and began spreading the Christian faith to the pagan tribes of Kalinga, mambabatoks like Whang-Od were ostracized. Tattoos were derided as marks of savagery, ignorance, and malfeasance. But Whang-Od continued to tattoo anyone who came to her, mostly women of her tribe.
In 2007, anthropologist Lark Krutak came upon Whang-Od, already pushing 90 years old, in Buscalan as he was filming the Philippine segment of his Discovery Channel series Tattoo Hunter. That set Whang-Od off on a path of late-age stardom. Now, thousands of tattoo enthusiasts – many of them from abroad – make the pilgrimage to her village, 12 hours from Manila, to see her in person. The last leg is a 1 km hike through a narrow, winding mountain trail.
Though Whang-Od can no longer ink the intricate patterns of old, she passes on everything she knows to her grandnieces, Ms Grace Palicas, 26, and Ms Elyang Wigan, 23, including the ancient chants that go with the tattooing process. Those who insist on having her tattoo must be happy with just three dots.
Vogue Philippines editor-in-chief Bea Valdes told CNN that the magazine decided to put Whang-Od on its cover because “we felt she represented our ideals of what is beautiful about our Filipino culture”. “We believe that the concept of beauty needs to evolve, and include diverse and inclusive faces and forms. What we hope to speak about is the beauty of humanity,” said Ms Valdes.
Before Whang-Od, actress Judi Dench was the oldest Vogue cover model, at 85 years old when she appeared on the cover of British Vogue in 2020. However, Whang-Od’s cover is arguably more significant, highlighting the importance of cultural preservation and diversity in the world of fashion and beyond.
