HBO’s “Succession” has been a hit TV show for the past five years, popular for its witty dialogue, family relationships, and the finely curated wardrobe that has helped popularize a now-trending fashion phenomenon, known as “stealth wealth”. The show has become one of the prime examples of this fashion trend that has been around even before the show debuted.
“Stealth wealth” can be understood as an extension of previous minimalist fashion trends, emphasizing quality and discretion. Cathleen Sheehan, a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, explained that it is all about understated and polished style. It is not about “look at me” fashion, but rather, “look a little closer to really see what’s going on.”
The characters in “Succession” have been dressing in nondescript clothing for the last three seasons, dressing in blank baseball caps, cashmere sweaters, and neutral-colored suits that hardly jump off the screen. Superfans of the show have turned logo-less clothing into an Easter egg-style game of determining the brand behind the styles. These brands are typically luxury ones like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and others.
Jonathan Schwartz, the assistant costume designer on “Succession,” explained that they did their research on the Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones, and Jeff Bezoses of the world. They did not necessarily follow what these billionaires are wearing, but who the character is and the places they would shop. Roman might be shopping downtown while Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue. It fits into the overall theme of billionaires because they are definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it is the character that dictates the types of clothing they wear.
There have been numerous articles over the last five years of how “Succession” has helped fuel demand for certain luxury items like Loro Piana’s baseball cap and the brand’s white-soled shoes. Kendall Roy, played by Jeremy Strong, has had the biggest style evolution over the four seasons, which was meant to reflect the changes in his character. The character started the show in corporate-style suits and evolved to more expensive leather and suede jackets and streetwear sneakers. His casual style still plays into “stealth wealth” as his clothing is typically from Loro Piana, Tom Ford, or Gucci.
Schwartz states that besides Kendall Roy, the show’s characters have had little style evolution in the four seasons, which perhaps reflects a larger message. “The funny thing about this show is even in the characters, nobody changes,” he said. “In writing, people are supposed to change and transform. That’s the funny thing about ‘Succession.’ They start off as bastards and they end up unchanged from that.”
The show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters and how they do not distract from the dialogue. “Stealth wealth” has appealed to the masses for their aspirational quality. It appeals to the viewer as aspirational because they are wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford. It is classic black turtlenecks, but you have to study it to see why it looks good, what it is about it, so it is aspirational. There’s something intriguing about that that feels like a shift from “look at me” fashion to “look a little closer.”
“Stealth wealth” can also be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces. The trend has caught on because of its sleek, discreet aesthetic, and the fact that quality is becoming a new lingo for luxury.
In conclusion, “Succession” has exemplified a trend that has been around for a while but has just recently caught the public’s eye. “Stealth wealth” emphasizes quality and discretion, and its appeal stems from its aspirational quality. The characters in “Succession” have become style icons for viewers, and their iconic looks have heavily contributed to this trending fashion phenomenon.
