For the past five years, “Succession”, the HBO TV show, has been a hit with viewers for its witty dialogue, dysfunctional family relationships, and sleek wardrobe. The show has popularized a niche trend within minimalist fashion that has come to be known as “stealth wealth” fashion. This trend is not entirely new, but it places more emphasis on quality and discretion. According to Fashion Institute of Technology professor Cathleen Sheehan, “stealth wealth” fashion is about being understated and polished, not drawing attention to oneself, but inviting a closer scrutiny of the clothing. The fashion niche has been a hit on the show, with nondescript clothing often worn by the characters, such as neutral-colored suits, cashmere sweaters, and blank baseball caps. This logo-less clothing has become a game of determining the brand behind the style for superfans of the show, who recognize the pieces, typically luxury brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Paul Stuart, Ralph Lauren, and others.
The costume designer of the show, Jonathan Schwartz, said that they did their research on the billionaires of the world, such as Rupert Murdochs, Sumner Redstones, and Jeff Bezos, but they do not exactly follow what they are wearing. Jonathan added that they follow who the characters are and where they would shop. Roman might be shopping more downtown, while Tom would be shopping on Madison Avenue. It fits into the overall theme of billionaires because they are definitely going to those high-priced stores, but it is really the character that dictates the types of clothing they would wear.
“Succession” has helped fuel demand for many luxury items, from Loro Piana’s baseball cap to its white-soled shoes. Both items can cost in the hundreds of dollars, but they often sell out at retail after a “Succession” character wears them. Schwartz noted that Kendall Roy (played by Jeremy Strong) has had the biggest style evolution over the four seasons, which was meant to reflect the changes in his character. The character started the show in corporate-style suits and has since evolved to more casual yet pricey leather and suede jackets and streetwear sneakers. The character’s casual style still plays into “stealth wealth” as his clothing is typically from Loro Piana, Tom Ford, or Gucci.
According to Schwartz, the show’s costumes have worked because of their authenticity to the characters, and how they don’t distract from the dialogue. It is also a testament to the show’s popularity and the appeal of “stealth wealth” fashion.
Sheehan believes both the show’s costumes and “stealth wealth” have appealed to the masses for their aspirational quality. She added that “stealth wealth” can be seen as an extension of the pandemic-influenced fashion trend of paring down wardrobes and investing in better quality pieces. It is aspirational because they’re wearing Loro Piana sweaters that most of us might not be able to afford. There’s something interesting about that, and it feels like a shift from “look at me” fashion to “look a little closer” fashion.
In conclusion, “Succession” is not just about the witty dialogue and the dysfunctional relationships of the characters. It has also popularized a niche trend within minimalist fashion that emphasizes quality and discretion, and has appealed to the masses for its aspirational quality. The sleek and understated wardrobe of the show is a testament to the appeal of “stealth wealth” fashion, and the show’s popularity. It is a fashion trend that has caught the attention of fashion enthusiasts, and one that is here to stay.
