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The State of the 2023 Oscar Race: Predicting the Winners of the Makeup and Hairstyling Categories
As the 95th Academy Awards approaches, the buzz about the awards season is heating up, and the predictions are pouring in. While many categories are up in the air, some are clearer than others, and one of them is the makeup and hairstyling category. Although three of the five nominees are yet to be released, we can still make some educated guesses based on the guild awards, trailers, and early reviews. In this article, we will rank the nominees in order of likelihood to win, analyze their strengths and weaknesses, and explore the creative and technical aspects of their work.
1. The Whale (A24)
The Whale, directed by Darren Aronofsky and starring Brendan Fraser, is not only a powerful and poignant drama about a man struggling with obesity and redemption, but also a tour de force of prosthetic makeup and digital effects. The makeup designer, Adrien Morot, developed a novel technique to create a suit that expands and contracts with Fraser’s movements, while maintaining his face and expressions intact. By using motion capture, 3D printing, and a skin-like material, Morot and his team simulated the folds, wrinkles, and layers of Fraser’s skin, fat, and muscle with incredible accuracy and detail. The result is a stunning transformation that not only convinces the viewer of Fraser’s size, but also conveys his emotions and personality. The makeup and hairstyling guild recognized this breakthrough by giving the film the award for special makeup effects, and the Academy nominated it for the same category, as well as makeup and hairstyling. Given the buzz and the innovation of the Whale’s makeup, it is the frontrunner to win the Oscar for makeup and hairstyling, and could also be a contender for best actor, best picture, or other technical awards.
2. Elvis (Warner Bros.)
Elvis, directed by Baz Luhrmann and starring Austin Butler, is a flashy and flamboyant musical biopic that chronicles the rise of Elvis Presley from a poor boy to a rock legend. The makeup and hairstyling team, led by Shane Thomas, Angela Conte, and Louise Coulston, had the challenge of recreating not only Presley’s iconic hair, but also his different looks and ages throughout the decades. They used a combination of wigs, hair extensions, facial prosthetics, and makeup to enhance Butler’s natural features and give him the Elvis vibe. The results are impressive, especially in the concert scenes, where the team had to make dozens of extras look like screaming fans of different ages and races. The guild acknowledged the Elvis team’s work by giving them the awards for period/character makeup and period hairstyling/character hairstyling. However, some critics have criticized the film’s excess and lack of depth, and it remains to be seen how much the voters will adore it. The fact that it is a musical and a biopic could work for or against it, depending on the taste and mood of the Academy.
3. Black Panther: Wakanda Forever (Marvel/Disney)
Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, directed by Ryan Coogler and starring Letitia Wright, Lupita Nyong’o, Danai Gurira, Winston Duke, and Angela Bassett, is a highly anticipated sequel to the groundbreaking superhero film Black Panther, which won three Oscars in 2019, including costume design, production design, and original score. The makeup and hairstyling team, led by Joel Harlow and Camille Friend, had the challenge of expanding the world of Wakanda and its diverse and colorful characters, while honoring its cultural and political roots. They drew inspiration from different African tribes and cultures, as well as other sources such as science fiction and fantasy. They also had to design new looks for previously unseen characters and creatures, such as the underwater Talokans, who are based on Mesoamerican tribes and cultures. The results are striking and imaginative, and elevate the characters and the story to a new level. The guild recognized the team’s work by giving them the award for contemporary hairstyling, and Bassett the Distinguished Artisan Award. However, the fact that the film is a sequel, and that its predecessor already won Oscars for technical categories, could dilute its chances of winning again, especially in a category that has traditionally favored period or fantasy films.
4. All Quiet on the Western Front (Netflix)
All Quiet on the Western Front, directed by Edward Berger and starring Felix Kammerer, is a German adaptation of the classic anti-war novel by Erich Maria Remarque, which won two Oscars in 1930 for best picture and best director. The makeup and hairstyling team, led by Heike Merker and Linda Eisenhamerová, had the challenge of depicting the gruesome and realistic effects of trench warfare on the adolescent soldiers, who age and decay quickly under the conditions. They used a combination of mud, blood, sweat, and tears, as well as wigs, facial hair, and makeup, to make the actors look dirty, wounded, and exhausted. The results are convincing and immersive, and give the film a sense of documentary-like authenticity. However, the fact that the film is in German, and that it is the only international feature nominee in the category, could hinder its chances of winning, especially since the Academy rarely rewards non-English language films in technical categories.
5. The Batman (Warner Bros.)
The Batman, directed by Matt Reeves and starring Robert Pattinson, Zoë Kravitz, Colin Farrell, and Paul Dano, is a gritty and dark reboot of the Batman franchise, which explores the early years of Bruce Wayne’s career as a vigilante and detective in Gotham City. The makeup and hairstyling team, led by Michael Marino, Naomi Donne, and Mike Fontaine, had the challenge of reimagining the iconic looks of the characters, especially the villains, who are played by actors known for their looks and charisma. The standout work is the transformation of Colin Farrell into the Penguin, a deformed and grotesque gangster, who is almost unrecognizable under the layers of prosthetic makeup and fat. The results are impressive, and demonstrate the team’s skill and creativity. However, the fact that the film is a comic book adaptation, and that it is competing against more realistic and dramatic films, could limit its chances of winning, especially if the voters prefer a more traditional or mainstream approach to the category.
In conclusion, the makeup and hairstyling category of the 2023 Oscars promises to be a diverse and exciting field, with nominees that range from the experimental and innovative to the classical and realistic. While predicting the winners is never an exact science, we can make some educated guesses
